On the Water

by Chaco Mohler and Elisabeth Korb

Mark Twain famously described Lake Tahoe as "the fairest view the whole earth affords"—and certainly must have said so after seeing it from a boat. For generations since, the experience of floating across The Lake's ultraclear water has left indelible impressions on those who have ventured out on this "noble sheet of blue."

Read on for some of the most memorable ways to bob, float or make a wake on The Lake.

Kayaking

There is perhaps no more personal way of experiencing the ever-altering moods of Tahoe's crystalline surface than in a kayak. Proximity to water is what paddlers say they love most about kayaking here.

"You have an immediate connection with the elements," says South Lake Tahoe resident Bob Kingman, creator of the Tahoe Water Trail, a map and guide that ties together the many gems of Tahoe's shoreline into daylong or multi-day trips. (For more information, visit www.laketahoewatertrail.org.)

Andrew Laughlin, owner of Tahoe City Kayak, offers guided excursions for all levels, including full-moon and sunset tours as well as a Historic West Shore Tour, which finishes with lunch at Jake's on the Lake in Tahoe City.

If you choose to venture out on your own (solo or tandem), rentals are available around The Lake at places like Tahoe City Kayak and Kayak Tahoe in South Lake Tahoe. Laughlin says that most beginners go out for about three hours; those anxious about the physical challenges of paddling can instead choose pedal-drive kayaks (foot driven, no oars involved).

Without question, the two most popular spots to row a boat—in fact, two of the most popular spots on The Lake for any activity—are Emerald Bay and Sand Harbor. Emerald Bay and the shoreline to the north have both stunningly beautiful water and dramatic vistas; the bay was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1969.

For those interested in a multi-day paddling experience here, the boat camp on the north side of the bay offers overnight camping. Advance reservations are necessary; call (530) 541-3030, 1-800-444-7275 or visit www.parks.ca.gov for information.

The turquoise waters and numerous granite rock formations around Sand Harbor create an almost unparalleled paddling experience. South out of the harbor, kayakers can reach numerous sandy coves including Chimney Beach, Secret Harbor and Skunk Harbor or venture farther, roughly a half-hour paddle, to get a lakeside look at the historic Thunderbird Lodge.

Sailing

There are few, if any, other bodies of water on this planet where, ringed by mountains, you can sail for hours in multiple directions (without, if you desire it, the necessity for a tack or jibe) and lean over and drink the water. Being pulled across Tahoe's rippled blue surface can be purely relaxing in smooth summer breezes, the journey guided by the telltale ribbons on the sails and the mountain landmarks above the shore, or absolutely thrilling in the gusty winds that often kick up in the afternoon.

There are several sailboat charter companies around The Lake as well as opportunities to rent. "Sailing on The Lake takes your breath away," says Russ Noorda, who, along with his wife, Debbie, charters the 41-foot ketch Zephyra out of South Shore's Tahoe Keys Marina. "Most power boaters stay close to shoreline. With a sailboat, you can navigate out into The Lake completely alone and free of everyone with beautiful views in all directions."

"It's an eco-friendly experience of Lake Tahoe that is both peaceful and, at times, exhilarating," says captain Jim Courcier, who co-owns Tahoe Sailing Charters with Mike Pavel. Each afternoon during the summer months, Courcier and Pavel charter their 50-foot, Santa Cruz class yacht Tahoe Cruz out of Tahoe City to visitors hungry for an alternative view of Lake Tahoe.

"It's a wonderful adventure for the entire family," says Courcier. "We've had everyone from infants to 90-year-old grandparents on board."

If you're looking to rent, Action Watersports at South Lake's Timber Cove Marina offers experiences from a full-day 24-foot sailboat rental to an hour-long 16-foot Windrider trimaran for novices.

Tahoe City Kayak brings an even simpler rental option to The Lake with the Hobie Mirage Adventure Island "sail/yak." Part pedal-drive kayak, part sailboat, this craft is "virtually unflippable," according to Laughlin, taking the guesswork and danger out of sailing for beginners.

Power Boating, Waterskiing And Jetskiing

Power boating has a beloved history at Lake Tahoe, beginning with the launches of the 1800s that carried hotel guests on excursions. In the early twentieth century, wooden boats, or woodies, became increasingly popular. An entire culture has developed around the craft, culminating in North Tahoe's Wooden Boat Week (August 7–13) and the Concours d'Elegance, one of North America's finest boat shows (August 7–9). The Tahoe Maritime Museum's new facility in Homewood, completed this spring, promises to be a more permanent commemoration to this heritage.

While power boats have changed through the years—fiberglass has all but usurped wood as the choice boatbuilding material—motoring over the Big Blue remains one of the most popular ways to get on, or in, the water.

For those who do take the plunge, note that water temperatures are very chilly (September has the warmest water). Wetsuits are recommended to keep the cold at bay, especially if you're staying in for longer than a quick dip.

Chilly waters nonetheless, waterskiing and wakeboarding are extremely popular here, especially on calm coves in the early morning hours. High Sierra Water Ski School of Tahoe City and Homewood is one of the largest-volume waterski schools in the country, teaching up to 150 students a day. Owner Lee Schmidt, who started the company 31 years ago, says it's the fitness level required that makes the waterski/wakeboard experience so unique.

Looking for a happy medium between being on the boat and in the water? A jetski may be your best bet. While you'll get splashed, you aren't all the way in the water—and, as with a power boat, you can still make wakes and quench your need for speed.

Cruise Boats

Looking for a romantic dinner on The Lake followed by dancing? Want to sightsee at a leisurely pace in a more catered, social atmosphere? Have a large group or wedding party? Want under-the-action seats for Fourth of July fireworks? A cruise aboard one of Tahoe's bigger boats is your ticket.

Three large paddlewheelers offer regularly scheduled cruises throughout the summer: the M.S. Dixie II out of Zephyr Cove, the Tahoe Queen out of Ski Run Marina and the Tahoe Gal out of Tahoe City. All offer a variety of sightseeing trips—from Emerald Bay excursions to jaunts along the West Shore—as well as meal-accompanied tours, be it breakfast, lunch, brunch, happy hour or dinner.

If you're looking for the ultimate in romance, you'll probably want to steer toward the Tahoe Gal's full-moon cruises. The Gal also hosts live music every Sunday night and Monday Madness cruises with free entertainment like comedy acts, wine and bourbon tastings, art auctions and magicians. Take the whole family to enjoy the Tahoe Queen's popular Family Fun Cruise with the local, much-loved lake monster, Tahoe Tessie, or the Mark Twain Tales of Tahoe Cruise, which brings legends of The Lake to life through the words of the American author. Additionally, it's the Queen's 25th anniversary, so look for renovations and join the anniversary celebration on June 22.

For a taste of Hollywood, hop aboard Harrah's Tahoe Star, gaming legend William Harrah's former private yacht, which has hosted the likes of Sammy Davis Jr., Frank Sinatra, Bill Cosby, Robin Williams and David Letterman. A shuttle leaves from the Stateline casino to Round Hill Pines, where daily tours and private charters embark for a 1.5-hour voyage with beverage service.